August 30, 2024 a trip into the Picos Breakfast - Royal III Lunch - La Soldreria in Potes Snack - Osteria, San Vicente
We left the Posada at 9:00 and drove N-634 to Royal III and bought a slice of tortilla with ham and cheese called a York con queso and two coffees with milk and a loaf of bread and a pain au chocolat that is a Neapolitana in Spain and ate a quick breakfast. We took the bread and half of the neapolitana and drove to the next exit on A-8 and drove through Unquera onto N-621 into the Picos toward Potes.
About halfway we arrived at our first goal, the thermal baths at Hotel Hermida. The hotel is situated between the Deva River and a nearly vertical wall of one of the Picos. We soaked from 10:30 until 12:30. The indoor baths are walled on one side by the cliffs of the Picos and their best feature in our opinion was the carved out fifty foot deep natural circular pool at the base of the cliff that reminded us of a cenote in the Yucatán with vines handing down and a waterfall.
After we bathed we drank a beer and then drove on to Potes. The road beyond the hotel was an active construction zone where half of the road that was collapsing into the river was being replaced. We were stopped four or five times to wait for oncoming traffic to clear the one open lane and then the traffic in our lane was sent through the one open lane to the next barricade where oncoming traffic was stopped.
Finally around 2:00 we arrived at Potes and were lucky to find a parking spot in one of the public parking areas. Potes is about 20 miles into the high Picos in a large valley through which the Deva River flows and has a fortress and lots of old buildings.
Suzette had selected Restaurante La Soldreria for lunch and we had agreed we would not over-eat or over-order before we arrived in Potes, but Soldreria was a 4.7 star rated restaurant so not to be taken lightly.
https://www.lasoldreria.com
We walked up the hill from the parking lot about three blocks to Calle de Sol. When we arrived around 2:00 the seats were all taken but since the restaurant opened at 1:00 we were happy to wait for a table. We sat in the bar and Suzette drank a vermouth and I drank a glass of rose’ wine for fifteen minutes until we were shown to our table.
Soon a waiter who spoke English arrived and explained the three daily Specials: grilled artichokes, grilled lamb chops, and a beef rib cooked in an au jus sauce.
I decided on the artichokes and the lamb chops. The waiter suggested serving the artichokes first and then the lamb chops and we agreed.
When the artichokes arrived they had been trimmed to just two rows of inner leaves with the hairy part around the heart removed and ground ham placedin the heart and grilled under a brick to flatten and brown the heart. The artichokes were floating on a puddle of sauce that combined Romesco, olive oil, and lemon juice. The artichokes were the most tender and flavorful artichokes either of us had ever eaten, so the first course was a winner.
We had finished our initial drinks and asked the waiter to suggest a lighter red wine to drink with lamb chops. He responded, “Let let you try a wine I think you will like.”
He soon brought a bottle without showing us the label, but I saw a gold medal and Vinos Artesanos on the back label. It had an earthiness but lacked the heaviness of a Syrah. He later told us it was a Mencia red from their valley. We liked it a lot, especially with the simply grilled lamb chops, twice baked potatoes, and salad plate.
We were full and held firm to our decision to not eat anything else.
We asked for ice cubes and added them to the wine to cool it and sat and enjoyed the last of our glass of wine until 3:30.
When the bill came, we were surprised how Inexpensive it was at 38 Euros and discovered the glasses of Mencia were free.
What a great dining experience.
Two factors may have explained the free wine. We were Americans and La Soldreria features American food and we were dressed in our best Mexican shirt and blouse, so we stood out as well dressed Americans.
After lunch we walked about three blocks along the river through the old part of Potes and then back to the car.
We drove back the way we came with a caravan of cars, motorcycles, and trucks through the construction zone to San Vicente by way of A-8, the access controlled high speed Autovia. When we returned I ate the rest of the Neapolitana to celebrate making it alive through the narrow road and construction zone.
We rested until 10:00 and then drove to Osteria, which was full in the restaurant and the bar.
We waited 10 minutes for a table in the bar and got help ordering Alarino “subre lies” that means it is fermented on the lies or skins for an added period of time that softens the tannins and acidity. The head waiter confirmed that Casal Martin was aged on the lies so we ordered a bottle of it for $20.00. Suzette checked its location and found that it was near Combarro, so we might go there when we stay in Comarro.
We then ordered our now favorite selection of oysters on the half-shell, two natural with lemon, two on the half-shell with frozen vermouth and chopped green olives, and two breaded with panko, fried, and garnished with seaweed salad and flying fish eggs with wasabi soy sauce.
We enjoyed the late night snack and returned to the posada at 11:30. Osteria stays open until 2:00 a.m. on Fridays, so it was only the first half of a shift for the night shift.
This was a great day of food and a return to a positive level of activity and wonderful experiences.
Bon Appetit
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