Sunday, April 21, 2013

April 17, 2013 New Recipe – Ham and Asparagus in Mornay Sauce on Egg Noodles


April 17, 2013 New Recipe – Ham and Asparagus in Mornay Sauce on Egg Noodles
I was drafting a pleading with Scott Boyd, one of my clients in the LRG adjudication, all afternoon and Josefo Martines another client, who is an electrical contractor, who was kind enough to volunteer to come over to repair a short in the electrical system at my home was working on that with Willy as his assistant,, so I was busy until after 5:00 p.m. when Scott left.  
Suzette had come home and she was hungry and I had not taken any steps to prepare any dinner, so she took over and in her own special way, went through the fridge and assembled ingredients and created a new dish.   The dish she created included chopped baked ham, two kinds of mushrooms sliced and sautéed, finely sliced fresh asparagus in a Mornay sauce served on egg noodles.
The unique part of the recipe was the Mornay sauce.  It was made with a roux and then grated Swiss Gruyere was added, but instead of milk, Suzette used some pasta water from the egg noodles, a little heavy cream and when I finally came into the kitchen, some Amontillado sherry and a little white wine.   The combination of liquids created a light yet creamy and flavorful sauce that coated the noodles and ham and mushrooms beautifully.
The dish was wonderful.  We drank a 2007 Lazy Creek Vineyards Anderson Valley Riesling that we had bought in 2009 on our second trip to Anderson Valley for its Pinot Noir Festival.  Lazy Creek sits on the plateau above the north side of Anderson Valley, where its south facing vineyard catches more moisture and sunlight at its higher elevation.
 
If you love Pinot Noir and have not been to the Pinot Noir Festival in Anderson Valley, I recommend that you go.  It is usually held the second or third weekend in May.  Friday night there is usually a catered barbeque to which every attendee is supposed to bring an interesting bottle of wine to drink.  I have had amazing wines at this event, like a Sangiovese dessert wine.   Remember, many of the attendees are winemakers or growers.
There are technical lectures during the day on Thursday and Friday.  Then on Saturday there is a Grand Tasting, usually in a huge tent in the middle of Golden Eye Vineyard where only Pinot Noir in all of its manifestations is served; red, blush, rosé, and champagne.  If you like Pinot Noir, entering the big tent after a walk through Golden Eye’s beautiful tasting area and part of its vineyard will be closest thing most of us on earth will experience, short of arriving at the gates of heaven.   It is wonderful in every way.  Three food lines with delicious food and about seventy booths serving some of the best wines you have ever tasted in one spot.
Saturday evening is devoted to wine dinners,  much like those we have here, where a vineyard or two will provide the wines for a dinner at a restaurant or winery with a kitchen.  That trip we stayed at Shirlee and Larry Londer’s Londer Vineyard guest house with Rick Davis, their winemaker, and attended the Boonville Hotel’s Wine Tasting Dinner given in conjunction with Navarro Vineyards.  Navarro produces consistently great wines of many different types.   Here is a list that demonstrates their overall quality of wine:
Prior Release Medals - March 2011
 
In the past three years Navarro Vineyards has released 67 wines, with 62 winning Gold or Silver medals in National and International Wine tastings.

SILVER
 
2008 Chenin Blanc, Mendocino (Dry)
GOLD
 
2009 Chenin Blanc, Mendocino (Dry)
GOLD
 
2006 Chardonnay, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2007 Chardonnay, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2008 Chardonnay, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2006 Chardonnay, Première Reserve
GOLD
 
2007 Chardonnay, Première Reserve
GOLD
 
2008 Chardonnay, Première Reserve
SILVER
 
2007 Chardonnay Table Wine, Mendocino
SILVER
 
2008 Chardonnay Table Wine, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2007 Edelzwicker, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2008 Edelzwicker, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2009 Edelzwicker, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2007 Gewürztraminer, Cuvée Traditional (Dry)
SILVER
 
2009 Gewürztraminer, Cuvée Traditional (Dry)
GOLD
 
2007 Gewürztraminer, Estate Bottled (Dry)
GOLD
 
2008 Gewürztraminer, Estate Bottled (Dry)
GOLD
 
2009 Gewürztraminer, Estate Bottled (Dry)
GOLD
 
2009 Gewürztraminer, Late Harvest
GOLD
 
2008 Gewürztraminer Table Wine, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2007 Mourvèdre, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2007 Muscat Blanc, Estate Bottled (Dry)
GOLD
 
2008 Muscat Blanc, Estate Bottled (Dry)
GOLD
 
2009 Muscat Blanc, Estate Bottled (Dry)
SILVER
 
2006 Navarro Brut, Anderson Valley
SILVER
 
2007 Navarrouge, Mendocino Red Table Wine
SILVER
 
2009 Pinot Grigio, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2007 Pinot Gris, Anderson Valley
GOLD
 
2008 Pinot Gris, Anderson Valley
GOLD
 
2009 Pinot Gris, Anderson Valley
GOLD
 
2008 Pinot Gris Table Wine, Anderson Valley
GOLD
 
2006 Pinot Noir, Deep End Blend
GOLD
 
2007 Pinot Noir, Deep End Blend
GOLD
 
2006 Pinot Noir, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2007 Pinot Noir, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2006 Pinot Noir, Méthode à l'Ancienne
GOLD
 
2007 Pinot Noir, Méthode à l'Ancienne
SILVER
 
2005 Petite Sirah, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2006 Petite Sirah, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2006 Riesling, Anderson Valley (Dry)
GOLD
 
2007 Riesling, Anderson Valley (Dry)
GOLD
 
2008 Riesling, Anderson Valley (Dry)
GOLD
 
2009 Riesling, Anderson Valley (Dry)
GOLD
 
2007 Riesling, Cluster Select Late Harvest
GOLD
 
2007 Riesling, Late Harvest
GOLD
 
2007 Rosé, Mendocino (Dry)
GOLD
 
2008 Rosé, Mendocino (Dry)
SILVER
 
2009 Rosé, Mendocino (Dry)
SILVER
 
2009 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley (Dry)
GOLD
 
2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Cuvée 128
GOLD
 
2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Cuvée 128
GOLD
 
2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Cuvée 128
GOLD
 
2006 Syrah, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2007 Syrah, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2006 Zinfandel, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2007 Zinfandel, Mendocino
GOLD
 
2006 Zinfandel, Old Vine Cuvée
GOLD
 
2007 Zinfandel, Old Vine Cuvée
Both the Boonville Hotel's dinner and the wines were really impressive.  My strongest recollection was the wine served with dessert, Navarro’s Late Harvest Cluster Select Riesling or Gewürtztraminer.  It blew me away.   I had never known that an American winery could create a wine with a taste similar to noble rot and manipulate it into a wine that stood on all fours with the great wines of Sauterne, but they did.   This wine has won many awards and sells for $59.00. 
There is also an Alsace Festival in February in Anderson Valley that is very interesting.  Anderson Valley, because it is so far north and so near the coast, produces not only exceptional pinot noir, but all the other northern grapes.  Its climate enhances all wines that benefit from cooler, wetter growing conditions.  Anderson Valley is only twenty miles over one ridge from the Pacific Coast and the valley’s open end is at the Pacific at Mendocino.    It used to be filled with Coastal Redwoods and still has a significant grove of redwoods.
The secret to learn from this meal is that there are a range of options one can choose from when making a cream sauce from all milk and the addition of cheese for a very creamy taste to all stock and wine for a very non-dairy taste.   This dinner specifically demonstrated that you can mix those different approaches to reach a desired taste and consistency.    In the case of this meal Suzette was pushing both ends of the spectrum at once.  Cream and Swiss Cheese combined with sherry and pasta water and a bit of white wine to produce a sauce that is not distinctively at either end of the spectrum.   That is what was unusual about this meal, that you can have both ends of the spectrum in one sauce and enhance it further with the woody flavor of sautéed shitake and white mushrooms.  

Bon Appétit
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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