Tuesday, January 31, 2012

January 27, 2012 – Friday: A day in Taos.

January 27, 2012 – Friday: A day in Taos

Breakfast at the Inn is served by the owners, Tim and Leslie Reeves, from until , with coffee and tea beginning at so we were first and took the table on the northwest side of the room with an expansive view across the Llano Quemado at Their breakfast menu was lovely, an egg dish made with eggs from the Inn's own hen house stirred and baked with tomatoes and green chili, blueberry walnut muffins, Mountain High yogurt, fresh chopped fruit salad and granola.  So we sat, sipping tea and coffee and read the Thursday entertainment supplements, Pasatiempo and Tempo and then ate breakfast.  We noticed several things we wanted to do in the Taos Tempo, including a Milagro Bean Pot exhibit at the Hacienda Martinez, an exhibit of Cliff Harmon's work at the Blumenschien House on Ledoux, a Taos artists’ exhibit at the Town Hall and a band at Taos Inn in the evening.      

After breakfast we drove out
Lower Ranchitos Road
to Hacienda Martinez, which is owned by the Taos Historical Society.  The Hacienda was a real working hacienda with about twenty different rooms around two courtyards (placitas) connected by portals.  We realized the importance of the portals because as we toured the different rooms, it started to snow.  We saw weaving rooms, quilting rooms, an armory, a chapel and several bedrooms.  The larger sala was filled with beautiful religious art dating back to the the early 1800's (buteros [statutes of saints and Jesus and Mary], retablos [two dimensional paintings], carts of death [Santa Sacramienta? that the attendant explained was the believed method by which God fulfilled his commitment to take the righteous to heaven], tinwork frames, etc.)  A real treasure chest of Spanish and Mexican colonial art.  The rooms were furnished with period furniture and decorated as they would have been in the 1820's when the hacienda was active.   There was a grist mill and large kitchen with cheese, making equipment, also. 

After about an hour of touring the Hacienda Martinez, we drove to the Blumenschien House and saw the Cliff Harmon exhibit and the Blumenschien's extensive Taos Society of Artists collection.  The house was given by the Blumenschien's daughter Helen to the Taos Historical Society and it is still intact as the day they lived in the house plus a few added cabinets of awards and pictures associated with the family.   
When we stopped at the front desk to pay on our way out of the Blumenschien House we asked the attendant which gallery had some Cliff Harmon's for sale and were told to go to the Hulse-Warman Gallery on Camino Pueblo north.  We were hungry so we stopped a Graham Grille near the square on Camino Pueblo for some lunch.  I had the chowder, tried last night, and ceasar salad.  Suzette had a not very flacid calamari sauteed in blue corn meal coating and the excellent fig pizza, also served at the Reserve Tasting last night.

After lunch we walked to Hulse-Warman Gallery, located about three blocks north of the square on Camino Pueblo in the old Patrick Dunbar location.  It had only a few Cliff Harmon works in multiples done in 2010 and 2011.  None of the wonderful pencil drawings done in the late 40's that we loved.  So we talked to the owner, a veteran of the early wine and food days in Napa in the 70’s, about wine and food and looked at some of his other artists’ work.  I particularly liked the work of Michelle Cook, a NYC artist who works in works in grids of plain clear glass that throw decorative shadows on the paper into which the pieces of glass are fastened.  We asked which of the new restaurants he liked and he volunteered the name, Mondo Italiano as a real Brooklyn Italian restaurant.  We thanked him for his suggestions and complimented him on his lovely Gallery and marched on to the Town Hall where we saw the local artists' works there, mostly amateur artists.  Then we went to Robert Parsons Gallery on
Bent Street
and surprisingly, found Robert and Eric there.  When Robert asked, "Is there anything you are interested in"? Suzette said, "Cliff Harmon's early work.".  Robert walked into his store room and pulled out a lovely casein painting of the old Guadalupe Mission in Taos (that used to stand on the Placita just west of the Plaza, but had burned in 1962)  It was painted in a very flat two dimensional style that we did not love.  So we said we would see Robert at the Midtown Lounge in Arroyo Hondo later and after the long walk around downtown Taos, we went back to the room for a nap.

At around we awoke and went over to the Trading Post for its four artist opening.  We met and enjoyed talking to Thom Wheeler, who has lived in Taos since 1985 and is a prolific artist working in several mediums, whogrew up in Alice, Texas.  So we jawed about folks we both know from Fort Worth, drank wine looked at art and the many awards garnered over the years by chef/owner       Meddler.  Then we said our farewells to the Wheelers and went to the Mondo Italiano for dinner around .

Mondo Italiano is located in a strip center on South Camino Pueblo south of Albertsons.  It is filled with formica covered tables, booths and banquettes with the kitchen and a long counter and refrigerated display cases filled with pizza ingredients and desserts in the back.  We sat and looked at the menu.  Suzette immediately saw that the restaurant served a fried avocado and I was looking at the baked pastas.  We decided on the avocado and two half orders of pasta.  Farfalle Carbonara ($6.50) 1 inch wide strips of pasta lightly baked with peas, pancetta, garlic, in an olive oil sauce and Ravioli ($6.50) laid on a wild mushroom cream sauce (mostly oyster mushrooms and strips of porcini) and garnished with marinara sauce.  We ordered a glass of Masi Sangiovese ($6.00 per glass), which was not very good compared to the superb wines we had drunk the night before, but in fairness it was probably a $7.00 bottle, not a $100 bottle of wine.   We loved the food but I had to order a side of flash grilled fresh spinach served in a garlic and olive oil sauce to add to the Farfalle to give it added vegetable mass ($3.00).  So we had a very light but filling and pleasant dinner.

Revived, we pushed on to the Taos Inn for the music.  We found a seat, which is unusual. The Band of four members was two couples. A female conga player, a female singer, a male regular guitar player and a male steel guitar player.  We enjoyed the music, which ranged across the spectrum of world fusion music from West African Afro pop music to Cuban Afro Latin and South American music.  There was one interesting event involving our waiter.  After about thirty minutes a waiter approached us and asked if we wanted something to drink and I ordered pineau.  He did not know what I had said and so I ordered Doc Martin’s wine menu.  When I showed him the listing for a pineau under sherries and Ports, he said, “Oh, a sherry.”  I said, “No, a French aperitif.”  He said, “Oh, a French aperitif!”  I was happy he was willing to be informed.  We find that pineau is always a good thing to order at Taos Inn because they pour a full 6 ounce glass for $6.00 that we chased down with glasses of water.  Not enough good things can be said about the city water of Taos.  It is so fresh tasting, as if it had just run down the mountain from the snow covered slopes, which if probably did.

After about an hour we saw that it was after so we knew that the first set had started at Midtown Lounge, so we jumped into the car and drove north.  I had had a tip on the location from Thom Wheeler, who said it was seven miles north of the traffic light at the Ski Basin/Gorge crossing roads.  So even though Suzette was insisting that we go to the Old Blinking Light Tavern and Restaurant on the
Ski Basin Road
, I pushed on north at the light and when I saw a sign for Arroyo Hondo at 7 miles, knew we were on the right path.  When we arrived at Arroyo Hondo the Midtown Lounge was practically the only building that was well lit, and the dirt parking lot only had about six trucks in front of it.  Inside it had a large dance floor and three pool tables and a long bar that wrapped one corner of the lounge.  So we immediately danced several dances because we loved the Texas Western Swing style of music (think Bob Wills) and then played several games of 8 ball during the band’s break and said hi to Robert and then danced some more during the second set and at about 10:30 we headed back to the room.

By we were happily in bed.
  

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