May 20, 2013 Another fabulous day at NRA, Dinner –
Topolobampo
We started at 10:00 am by going to a fabulous speech by
Anthony Bourdain. He was funny and
insightful. I asked a question “What do
you think is the proper etiquette for a poorly cooked meal or poor service. To make a long answer short, h said, “You
give the kitchen the opportunity to fix the problem and if they can not you
vote with your dollars and not go back and if it was really bad you tell others
that it was a really bad restaurant.
After the lecture I went to an education session of menu development
that turned out to be boring because it was from the perspective of large chain
restaurant s like Popeye’s Fried Chicken, Fried Chicken, which has changed its
name to Popeye’s Louisiana Kitchens n which they talked about the chain of actions
required to develop new menu dishes. It
made me feel that the process was driven by produce access and marketing and
made me realize that food ingredient sourcing and availability takes on a whole
new meaning when you have 1000 restaurants in your chain and how that is so
like working at Pier 1., where it took the concurrence of 30 to 50 people to
make a decision and 100s to execute the decision, except for companies like
Starbucks it takes over 11,000 managers to execute the strategy.
The other thing it taught me was that the process of developing
a menu for a chain of restaurants is a whole different animal than a home or
one small restaurant like the Greenhouse Bistro and Bakery or our house, where the
menu is decided in a moment based upon availability of ingredients.
Talking about ingredients, after the lecture at 12:30 we went
downstairs to the food booths with Anne and Elizabeth to forage. I wanted to try the Japanese Pavilion’s products. There was everything from grilled Satsuma
beef on a dab of dry mancha and salt, to lots of types of green to freeze dried
mushroom, daikon and burdock to an amazing fresh frozen wasabi, which is a mustard
plant. They even made dashi flavored
spaghetti and had a cooking demonstration showing the proper method for making
ramen noodles: start by heating a flavored oil to 80˚C., then combine the oil
with soy and dashi and chicken stock to make the soup. And throw in the
noodles.
Finally, after trying all the Japanese foods we went to the
organic section and tried a few mussels at a Prince Edward Island mussel
company and a few other teas and snacks.
At around 2:30 made our way to the basement to try more spirits and ciders
and wines. I must have tried at least
five different ciders, Dobra chocolate liquor, a wonderful Pierre Ferrand Dry
Curaçao that used the rind of the bitter orange to give an intense orange
flavor to the cognac that had won the spirit of the year for 2013 in Berlin and
several Italian wines, including a lovey Franciacorta.
At around 3:30 p.m. Suzette ran out of gas and we left for
the hotel for a nap.
We got rolling at around 7:30 p.m. We walked south on Clarke past several Irish Pubs toward Rick
Bayless’ restaurants, Topolabampo and Frontera Grille. We arrived at around 8:15 and were told that
our table would not be ready until approximately 8:45 p.m. so we walked south
and then east five blocks enjoying the amazing architecture of Chicago.
When we returned to Topolabampo and were initially seated in the bar until our table was cleared. Suzette ordered a house made gin with a house made tonic that was very delicious.
Here is a picture of her seated in the Topolobampo dining room after we were shown to our table
and given a menu and wine list.
We
immediately decided that the Topo Classics Tasting Menu for $105.00 looked
great. and that we could split it, although Suzette was another entrée she wanted to try.
We discussed the wine choices with the sommelier and she
described how each dish was carefully paired with each dish, so we decided to split one tasting menu and we ordered the
5 perfectly paired wines for both of us, except that Suzette also wanted to order the Guasmole de
Borrego, a lamb dish with a guasmole (a mole sauce made with guajillo chile,
tomatillo and fresh guaje seeds) with a Spanish Tempranillo with her lamb dish, which the sommelier agreed with and said she would make that change to Suzette's pairing.
We were first brought a small glass cup filled with a layer
of ramps flan garnished on top with a maché of toasted almonds, ramps and ancho
chili topped with a sprig of baby lovage. The picture is a side view exposing the mache on the right and the ramps custard below it on the left.
The Classic Tasting menu started with “Esquites on the Edge
of Spring”, a preserved Nichols Farm Field corn molded into a column with a
layer of pickled trumpet mushrooms on the bottom of the corn column and
garnished with a layer of grated shaved cincho cheese and micro greens
and a young sprig of lovage and dusted with
powdered guajillo chili. The dish was served and then a waiter poured a corn and
nettle broth into the bowl.
I first
tried to deconstruct the dish by eating each ingredient and got a sharp hit of
guajillo chili, so I decided to mix everything up into a stew and that worked
much better.
The blending of the flavors worked better.
I especially
liked the nettle and corn broth.
The wine pairing with the corn dish was 2008 Domaine Des
Baumand “Clos de Papillon from Savenniéres form the Loire Valley in
France. We had visited the Baumand
Winery and drunk the wine last summer and did not like it because it was very
light and lacked the mineral complexity of some of the other Savenniéres wines
, but it made a nice match for the sweet corn and slightly bitter nettle and
salty cheese. But, since I find Savenniéres so infrequently on wine
menus that I can not criticize the presence of any Savenniéres wine.
The second course was titled “Three Bites of Oaxaca” that
included three small cut out circles of fresh corn tortilla with three
different meats, one Oaxacan chorizo coupled with a poached quail egg, the
second held a small pile of pork loin coated with a cecina sauce of
avocado-tomatillo salsa and most interestingly a pickled tomatillo and the
third, a carne asada made with beef tenderloin laid on a clump of refried black
beans with a slice of pickled white onion. each presentation was garnished with
a small red kale leaf and the three were served on a banana leaf. The second wine
poured was a 2009 Leopardi Brut Rosé from Penedés, Spain served chilled. The dark rose color belied the fact that the
wine was incredibly light and yet had a slight red wine flavor. Since I love rosé, it was my favorite wine
and a new one.
The third course was the fish course, “Halibut and lobster,
Green Sesame Pipián”, two small pieces of pan roasted halibut and a Maine
lobster torchon or roll of lobster that had been pressed into a roll and cut
into a ½ inch round and laid on pan roasted white sweet potatoes and a mound of
Snug Haven spinach; all the major food groups.
As in the first course, after the plate was uncovered at the table, the
wait staff poured the Green pipián sauce onto one-half of the plate that completed the dish because the
combination of cilantro, epazote and hoja santa colored the sauce a lovely
light green provided a lovely complement to the sautéed fish and sweet potatoes and lobster.
Although the sauce was a
light green it still had small specks of black and white from the ground up
sesame seeds.
Amazingly, the sauce was
velvety smooth.
The fish dish was served with a chilled light red 2010 Petalos from the Bierzo region in Spain.
I now need to mention that we became friendly with the two
couples seated at the table next to ours. The man sitting next to me was a tall blond
haired gentleman named Richard D. Debler, who was President and splits his time
between Mexico City where he owns the San Angel Inn restaurant outside of
Mexico and another restaurant at Epcot Center in Florida. He said he loves Rick’s food. It seems that he and his son or the younger
man with him and their two female companions were very familiar with, not only
the food served in Topo, but also the bakery next door and it appeared that he
was also attending the NRA Convention.
Richard had ordered the same tasting menu as we did, so we
could gauge his reactions to the same dishes we had eaten after we ate
them. He loved the simple elegance of
the corn and nettle soup appetizer and the tacos. When the Fish dish came Richard said he loved
the care with which the sauces were prepared. We agreed that the sauce on the fish dish was
exquisitely smooth for what is usually in Mexico a sauce that is chunky with
bits of sunflower seed.
The Fourth dish “Wood Grilled Ribeye and Foie Gras in Negro
Mole” was an interesting cross cultural combination of a very traditional European
combination of wood grilled 28 day aged prime beef ribeye and a small rectangle
of grilled foie gras with a traditional Oaxacan Mole Negro.
The mole contained 29 ingredients and had a
very rich deep chili and chocolate flavor that was perfect with the ribeye but
overpowered the delicate foie gras.
I
ate every speck of the sauce and Richard at the next table ate every speck of
his sauce, which in my mind was an even better indicator of its superb
reparation.
We both agreed that the
sauces were superb in every respect.
My grilled steak and foie gras was served with a piece of corn husked chipil tamal, black beans and smoky green beans. The glass of 2006 Benegas Lynch Meritage Libertad Vineyards located in Mendoza, Argentina went well with the bright chocolate sauce and steak’s flavor.
I tasted Suzette’s Guasmole sauce on her lamb tenderloin and thought it was the better sauce, brightly
flavored with guajillo chilis and a multitude of other ingredients.
The lamb dish was served with a potato au gratin that was lovely and the 2008 Mauro Cosecho was light and delicious with Suzette's brightly flavored lamb dish. Richard’s son, ordered the goat with the same guasmole sauce
and he really liked the guacsmole sauce also.
Finally, dessert arrived; two warm chocolate mesquite cakes
with densely rich, liquefied molten centers, served in a row with a scoop of
Mexican Vanilla ice cream (infused with Rosita de cacao and two cubes of sweet
masa pudding (nicuatole), sprinkled with toasted almonds, cacao nibs and masa
crisps and a fresh mint leaves. The dessert was paired with a glass of rather light 2010 Susana Balbo late
harvest Torrontés that was overwhelmed by the rich chocolate dessert. It was great to taste a late harvest
torrontés, but it should have been paired with a flan or something lighter that
it could have complemented it better.
All in all, it was a great dinner. The tasting menu was $105.00 and
the wine pairings were $60.00 each and Suzette's dish was around $35.00.
Bon Appétit