Sunday, April 20, 2014

April 20, 2014 Day 2 in Marrakech

April 20, 2014  Day 2 in Marrakech

Suzette and I got dressed round 7:30 a.m. and walked across and down the street to a grocer and bought butter, olive oil and a fresh baguette for 51 dirham (about $6.50, so quite expensive by U.S. standards, but it was about ½ pound or 200 grams of the type of French style butter and Moroccan olive oil we buy at Talin, so perhaps not all that expensive.

We sliced and sautéed the heavy brown corn and millet bread in a skillet with olive oil and I made tea and Suzette made coffee with heated milk and we poured orange juice and sliced a banana and some of the baguette and a few figs and we went to the roof to have breakfast.

At about 10:45 Naoiri came to guide us to the medina for more shopping.  Naoire took us to a great spice shop where the proprietor gave us a demonstration of the types of spices, incenses and teas.  We bought saffron, eucalyptus crystals, long black pepper we had never seen before, an ambur perfume, and blends for several mixes of spices for garam masala, chicken and fish ($100.00). We looked at a great shop owned by Naiore’s dad that sold fossils of Morocco.  There were lots of Mosasaur heads, ammonites and trilobites; really interesting stuff.  


Spice Shop and Willy

Spice shop and Willy and Suzette
Next we went to a bazaar where there were an assortment of items and were told that T.R. Lawrence used to trade a lot with this group of people.  We were looking for door latches but could not find any.  Finally Suzette called to me and when I went to her she said she had found something.  Neither of us knew what they were.  Can you guess what it is?

 
It is a tool used by the Berbers to tighten their weavings.
 
Can you guess what we will use them for?

We are going to mount them on the wall of our new mud room and use them for coat racks.

One of the owners showed us that the shop is mentioned as a good shopping place in several guidebooks.
The little cowrie shell pendant was given to me because we bought five of the weaving presses.  We did not have enough money to pay the entire $500.00 (4,000 Dirham), only 1,500 Dirham; so we decided to go to lunch and then an ATM and back to pay the rest of the money.

We ate lunch in the Toublak Restaurant at 59 Jemaa El Fna.  I wanted to eat a bowl of Moroccan soup.  We had two bowls of soup, 2 breads, two mixed salads (tomato, lettuce, potato, rice, cooked carrots, and cucumber) 
Mixed Salad ($.62)
and a Moroccan salad (marinated tomatoes, red onions, bell peppers, and a large bottle of water for 38 Dirham (about $4.50).  Can you guess what the most expensive item was?  It was the 1.5 liter bottle of water for 8 Dirham.   So you can eat well and cheaply.  I could not help thinking how upset it must make T.R. to have to pay $8.00 for a bowl of soup in Santa Fe, when a good bowl of soup with a piece of Arab bread costs $.50 in Marrakech.

Here are pictures of Easter Sunday at 2:00 p.m. on the Jamaa el Fna.  Notice how many people are wearing their Easter dresses.   Perhaps they did not get the memo that it is Easter.



The Jemaa, notice folks are steering clear of the snake charmers' tent in the center

Suzette and Naiore in front of the Mosque 
  After going to the ATM, we returned to the shop and paid the other 2,500 Dirham and had a cup of tea with Hassan, one of the owners.

We were tired and asked Naoire to lead us back home.  He took us to the last turn in the medina and said goodbye. 

At 6:30 p.m. we decided to go eat in the medina again.  We \wanted to sit up on a terrace.  We walked to  the Place Jemaa el Fna without difficulty but decided to eat in the smaller place next to it but with a view into it.  We climbed the stairs to the third floor terrace and took a table with a view of both the small place and into the larger Place.   



We ordered a beef Couscous and Vegetable couscous and a chicken tagine.  the portions were small but satisfactory, although not as good as last night's meal.  With water the meal totaled 130 Dirham.  After dinner we walked across the square to Restaurant Tagine that has a terrace that looks into the Place Jemaa el Fna and seems to have great food, if the girl making crepes is any indication.  Perhaps we will eat there some night.  We walked around the Place Jemaa el Fna abit but got bummed by the wind and so many people.  We saw folks watching dances and other entertainments.  We bought a container of yogurt and walked back to the apartment and opened our bottle of Douro red wine and enjoyed a couple of glasses of wine and a bit of dark chocolate.

Bon Appetit
      

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