September
26, 2014 New Recipe: Mixed Paella
Suzette left
for NY and Pennsylvania in the morning for the funeral of her brother in law.
We were
accumulating lots of PPIs like roasted
chicken and asparagus and shrimp, so while talking to a client Rosemary, who
owned Rose’s Table that recently closed, about a legal matter, I
mentioned wanting to cook a paella.
Rosemary said she knew how to make paella. So I invited her over to teach
me how to cook paella. We set the time to start cooking at 6:15 and discussed
ingredients. . Rosemary said we needed 7 cups of chicken
broth, fresh chicken meat, Spanish sausage/chorizo, bell pepper and short grain
rice. I said I had Knorr dehydrated chicken stock, PPI chicken breast, saffron
and shrimp but no bell pepper, fresh chicken or Bomba style short grain rice. We also discussed whether we wanted clams or
mussels and Rosemary said, “Mussels would be preferable.” So after lunch I chilled a French 2013 Le Pont rose from Bandol and when I finished filing a pleading at 5:15 drove to
Costco and bought a five pound bag of mussels ($2.99/lb.), mushrooms and eggs.
Shortly
after I returned at 6:15, Rosemary arrived with a large shopping bag filled with
Smoked Paprika, a small container of Spanish seasoning that included saffron
and cornstarch, a large red bell pepper, a jar of saffron leaves, four chicken
thighs, a packet of fresh Portuguese Linguica sausage, a two pound bag of short grain rice, a covered plate of goat cheese, kalamata olives and slices of French baguette and in a separate pie container, a lovely pear pie.
I fetched the last of a bunch of asparagus that had seen better days and
about ½ lb. of heads on 30-40 count shrimp (TaLin $8.69/lb.) and put the
mussels into a large pot filled with ice water.
We discussed
how we would prepare the paella. When I showed her our 17 inch wide paella pan
Rosemary said, “Perfect.” Unfortunately
the paella pan had last been used to dry lavender we picked from our
garden this year, so we washed the pan and Rosemary cured it by heating olive
oil in it to a high heat for a few minutes.
Then we
divided up tasks. When I told her my
traditional task was to prep and Suzette’s normal task was the cooking and
since Rosemary knew how to make the paella, it made the most sense for her to
cook, she agreed.
We started
by heating seven cups of water in a large sauce pan to which we added 3 1/2 Tbsps. of Knorr dehydrated chicken stock. Then Rosemary selected
thirty threads of saffron and soaked the threads of saffron in ½ cup of warm water.
Saffron (pronounced /ˈsæfrən/ or /ˈsæfrɒn/)[1] is a spice derived from
the flower of Crocus sativus, commonly known as the saffron
crocus. Crocus
is a genus in the family Iridaceae. Saffron crocus grows to 20–30 cm
(8–12 in) and bears up to four flowers, each with three vivid crimson stigmas,
which are the distal end of a carpel.
We used the
larger gas burner on our stove for our heat source. After she cured the paella pan, Rosemary heated
about 2 Tbsps. of olive oil in the paella pan. While Rosemary added the four chicken thighs and
squeezed clumps of the linguica sausage out of their casings into the hot olive
oil,
I chopped one medium onion, four large cloves of garlic, four medium tomatoes, the red bell pepper, and asparagus.
When I had thawed the 1/2 lb. of head on shrimp in hot water Rosemary said, “We need to cook the shrimp to yield their flavor and then remove them so they don't become tough.” So Rosemary cooked the shrimp for a couple of minutes and then removed them. She then added the chopped onion and garlic and then the chopped tomatoes. After another ten minutes Rosemary added the seven cups of chicken stock and the saffron plus its ½ cup of soaking liquid that the saffron had reddened and the chopped bell pepper and asparagus to the paella pan.
meat onion, garlic and tomatoes cooking |
cooking shrimp after adding liquid, bell pepper and saffrom |
After stirring
all the ingredients to mix them well and integrate their flavors. Rosemary said, “This is the most important part
of the preparation; we add the rice and then we do not stir the paella again.” She then sprinkled 2 ½ cups of the short grain rice evenly across the whole surface of the paella and we watched it sink into
the liquid.
Adding the rice |
Due to the fact that the burner only covered about ¼ of the paella pan with direct heat, while I discarded
the floating, cracked and dead mussels and pulled the beards out of the live mussels
with a needle nosed pliers, Rosemary patiently rotated the paella pan every few
minutes to evenly distribute the heat across the bottom of the pan. We could see the rice begin to rise in the
pan as it cooked.
When the mussels were cleaned, Rosemary placed them on top of the paella with their
opening facing upward. She continued to
turn the paella pan until all the mussels all opened and the liquid had mostly evaporated. She then placed the shrimp back on the top of the paella and declared the
paella cooked.
raising heat to open mussels and drive off some liquid |
Then Rosemary
did something I had never known about that turned out to be the other most important part
of cooking the dish. She asked, “Do you
have aluminum foil, so we can cover the paella and let it rest for 10 to
fifteen minutes?” I fetched the aluminum
foil and covered the paella pan and covered the paella and crimped the edges to obtain a tight seal.
At Rosemary's instruction, I then removed
the ends of lemon and sliced the lemon into quarters to garnish and flavor the
paella and toasted slices of baguette that Rosemary had brought and we then
discussed where to eat the paella and decided to eat outside, so I opened the
2013 Le Pont Bandol, which I think is the perfect accompaniment to paella because
it is raised in the far south of France and has a uniformly smooth flavor. I poured glasses of wine and turned on the lights by the pond in the garden. In another ten minutes we carried the paella and several of the bread slices I toasted and the glasses of wine to the table in the garden. When
everything was set on the table, which was probably fifteen minutes after we
covered the paella with foil, I scooped spoonfuls of paella into two pasta bowls.
The paella
was delicious, the rice was amazingly soft and everything seemed fully cooked
and flavorful, with no errant notes of flavor; just clumps of rice encrusted
with sausage, chicken and vegetables. We
removed mussels from their shells and peeled shrimp and sipped wine as we
enjoyed the paella. When I opened the
aluminum foil to scoop paella onto our plates the heat of the paella released a
noticeable aroma of saffron and seafood. I judge this cooking experience to be the most
successful preparation of paella I have witnessed, thanks to the knowledge of
Rosemary. I asked Rosemary what her family’s
origins were and she said she was ½ half Spanish from the south of Spain (Mallorca
and Seville) and ½ Mayan, and spent her earliest years in Progresso, Mexico. So perhaps knowing how to cook paella is in
her DNA.
This paella tasted
like none I have ever tasted before, not scorched on the bottom, which often
happens with a single direct heat source with well integrated flavors and a
uniformly moist yet cake like consistency, obviously due to all the right
ingredients in the correct proportions and careful cooking. We did not have fresh pimiento peppers, so the
choice of a ripe red bell pepper was a not a noticeable difference to me and
the addition of the fresh linguica sausage was brilliant because it infused its
flavor throughout the paella.
Here is a recipe for linguica sausage:
Make Your Own Portuguese Linguica Sausage
Linguica is a robust Portuguese sausage that
receives far less attention than it deserves. Unlike its cousin, chorizo,
linguica is more flavorful than hot, and takes full advantage of its signature
ingredient, paprika. Linguica works as well with egg and fish dishes as it does
with beef in hearty stews. If you are having trouble finding a local source for
this under-appreciated delicacy, try making your own linguica using the recipe
below.
Homemade Linguica Recipe
5 lbs. boneless pork butt
8 cloves garlic minced fine or pulverized
4 tbsp. paprika (sweet)
3 tsp. salt
1 tbsp. coriander
1 tbsp. cayenne
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. ground cloves
1 tsp. pepper
1 tsp. allspice
¼ cup sherry (sweet)
¼ cup vinegar
¼ cup cold water
Sausage casings (optional)
Meat smoker (optional)
Cut pork into cubes and grind on the coarse setting of your grinder. Combine all ingredients and refrigerate for 48 hours. Fill casings with mixture or create loose patties, smoke, and freeze. Smoking adds flavor and complexity to the sausage, so give it a try. The raw sausage should lose about 20% of its volume in the process.
You can see by the ingredient list that linguica relies heavily on paprika for flavor, and includes a bouquet of spices that make a distinctive blend. Underestimated as a flavoring agent, when heated, a quality paprika can make a huge impact on a dish. Here it marries well with sherry and pork to create a truly unique and delicious sausage.
One of my favorite ways to serve linguica is fried in iron skillet in two-inch sections and served for breakfast with scrambled eggs. But it is also wonderful when diced and added to green beans or in a variation on the country hearty beans and rice. For a special treat, try linguica with fresh coriander (cilantro), black beans, and shallots. I'll try and dig up the recipe for next time.
Special Note: Don't short change yourself by freezing your sausage too soon. The longer the ingredients marinate, the better the sausage will be. Oh, and use a quality sherry. Sherry is not a traditional ingredient in 'old country' linguica recipes, but it helps to create authentic flavor - really. Try it.
Homemade Linguica Recipe
5 lbs. boneless pork butt
8 cloves garlic minced fine or pulverized
4 tbsp. paprika (sweet)
3 tsp. salt
1 tbsp. coriander
1 tbsp. cayenne
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. ground cloves
1 tsp. pepper
1 tsp. allspice
¼ cup sherry (sweet)
¼ cup vinegar
¼ cup cold water
Sausage casings (optional)
Meat smoker (optional)
Cut pork into cubes and grind on the coarse setting of your grinder. Combine all ingredients and refrigerate for 48 hours. Fill casings with mixture or create loose patties, smoke, and freeze. Smoking adds flavor and complexity to the sausage, so give it a try. The raw sausage should lose about 20% of its volume in the process.
You can see by the ingredient list that linguica relies heavily on paprika for flavor, and includes a bouquet of spices that make a distinctive blend. Underestimated as a flavoring agent, when heated, a quality paprika can make a huge impact on a dish. Here it marries well with sherry and pork to create a truly unique and delicious sausage.
One of my favorite ways to serve linguica is fried in iron skillet in two-inch sections and served for breakfast with scrambled eggs. But it is also wonderful when diced and added to green beans or in a variation on the country hearty beans and rice. For a special treat, try linguica with fresh coriander (cilantro), black beans, and shallots. I'll try and dig up the recipe for next time.
Special Note: Don't short change yourself by freezing your sausage too soon. The longer the ingredients marinate, the better the sausage will be. Oh, and use a quality sherry. Sherry is not a traditional ingredient in 'old country' linguica recipes, but it helps to create authentic flavor - really. Try it.
After leisurely
savoring the soft mounds of flavor and texture in the paella, we decided it was
time to eat dessert. We went back
inside and cut the pear pie into slices and brought it and plates back outside
and enjoyed slices of fresh pear custard pie Rosemary had baked with pears from
a tree in her neighborhood.
Pear custard pie |
We finally
said goodnight and I thanked Rosemary for teaching me the authentic way to make
paella including the correct ingredients and all the little cooking secrets
that made this paella authentic paella. The
success of the dish was due in no small part to the fact that Rosemary is a great
cook. What a special evening!
I was sad
that Suzette was not here to enjoy the making of this authentic paella, but
there was lots of PPI paella left that I stored in the fridge to share with
Suzette when she returns from her trip.
Bon Appétit