December 28, 2012
Taos Breakfast - Mabel Dodge Lujan House, Lunch – Graham
Grille, Dinner- La Meze
We started the day with a breakfast buffet at Mabel Dodge
Lujan House, where we had slept in Tony Lujan’s room next to Mabel’s large
room. Breakfast included sausage links,
bacon, scrambled eggs, green chili potatoes, strawberry muffins, granola and
freshly made yogurt.
After breakfast we said goodbye to Billy, Elaine and Rebecca
and talked to Brian Taylor for a few minutes.
Then we went to town.
We first visited the Taos Art Museum to see its impressionism show by
Dan Wade. Then we went to Harwood Museum
to buy tickets for the wine tasting on Feb. 1, 2013 and the drove to and parked
at Taos Inn and inquired about wine meals with Bob, the manager of Doc
Martins. We do not like heavy reds so we
decided to forgo the Calera wine dinner at the Winter Wine Festival on February
1, 2013. We then walked to Kilborn
Pottery and Bauman Fine Art, which is located in what was once Bert Phillips
studio and compound, then to Moby Dickens Bookstore, Robert Parsons Gallery, a new mineral and fossil store and finally to
Graham’s Grille at around 12:15 to have a mimosa and a shared a Caesar
Salad. During lunch we had what was the
most interesting event of the trip. We
had noticed that the owner was named Cynthia Fay and one of the pages of the
wine list described how her father or grandfather was the first person to plant
Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in the Napa Valley in 1953. His high quality grapes and wine influenced
others to grow and produce Cabernet Sauvignon wines, which led to the starting
of Stags Leap Vineyard next door to his property in 1970. Then in 1976 what is known as “The Judgment
of Paris” occurred when California Cabernet Sauvignons and Chardonnays were
blind tasted against the best French red Bordeaux and white Burgundies in Paris
by the greatest French wine experts and a California red and white came out on
top. The white was a chardonnay from
Montelena and the red was a Cabernet Sauvignon from Stags Leap. That event, more than any other event in modern
wine making history, put California wines on the world stage and was made into
a movie. So there is history here. Stags Leap later bought some of Fay’s
property and one of its best wines is still produced from Fay’s land and vines
and is served at Graham’s Grille at $111.00 per bottle. The Fays owned 400 acres originally, so they
must have made a fortune, just on the sale of the land, which is some of the most
expensive wine acreage in America. For
more on the Judgment of Paris, see http://www.cask23.com/history/parisTasting/
After lunch we stopped at Parks Gallery to say hello to Stephen
Parks and then went back to the room by way of the Ranchero Boot Shop for red
polish for Suzette’s boots.
After a making a fire and reading by the fireplace in the
Mary Hunter Austin Room at Mabel Dodge Lujan House and taking a nap and a
shower, we went to La Meze for dinner at 6:15 p.m. After waiting a few minutes for an early
diner to finish and splitting a glass of Taval rosé, we were seated. The appetizers looked better than the
entrees, so we split a plate of 6 small pieces of battered and fried veal
sweetbreads served with a fresh shaved celeriac salad dressed with capers,
parsley, vinegar and aioli with which we drank the last of our rosé. The sweetbreads melted in your mouth and I had
never eaten a fresh celeriac salad and was impressed. It clearly had been made ahead of time and
allowed to sit so the vinegar would cook the celeriac.
We ordered a bottle
of 2008 El Coto Crianza Tempranillo from the Rioja and filled new glasses for
the next dish which was a Mushroom smothered piece of toasted bread. The sautéed shitake and cimini mushrooms were
sautéed in a rich veal reduction with parsley and garnished with a large dollop
of soft Spanish goat cheese. We cut up
the piece of bread and soaked the bread pieces with the sauce and ate them with
mushrooms and goat cheese and washed them down with sips of the red
tempranillo. The best dish of the
dinner.
Finally, the waiter brought our entrée, duck confit with
preserved lemon in a pasta bowl stacked on a pile of collard greens cooked in
bacon and garlic with a side of fried potatoes we had also ordered. The duck was delicious and we love the
vegetables at La Meze, so we loved the collard greens with bacon and lemon
peel. The potatoes were also delicious,
but I did not like the horseradish sauce they were served with, so dipped mine
in the collard greens’ broth.
The red wine was perfect with the heavy duck and fries and
we felt very full and happy as we sipped the last of our wine at the end of the
meal around 8:15.
We then went to KTAO performance space for a special Holiday
concert given by Michael Hearne and Max Gomez from Taos and Chuck and Laurie
Sweet from Florida. Finally at 11:00 we
drove back to the Mabel Dodge Lujan House and made another fire for a bit of
writing for me and bed for Suzette.
We decided to eat our wine dinner on February 1 at La Meze
because they are serving Drouhin’s Burgundy and Torres Spanish wines and have
great food.
Bon Appètit